Everything you need to know about choosing the right fabric for your garments. From fiber content to weave structures, weight classifications to care instructions.
Wool Worsted
Oxford Cotton
Linen
CorduroyUnderstanding the raw materials that make up your fabric is fundamental. Each fiber has unique properties that determine how the fabric looks, feels, breathes, and ages.
Wool is the gold standard for dress trousers and tailored garments. Its natural crimp creates air pockets that provide insulation while allowing breathability. Wool fibers can absorb up to 30% of their weight in moisture without feeling wet, making it comfortable across a wide range of temperatures.
The quality of wool is often measured by its "Super" number (e.g., Super 100s, Super 150s), which indicates the fineness of the fiber. Higher numbers mean finer, softer fibers—but also more delicate fabrics that require careful handling.
Cotton is the world's most widely used natural fiber, and for good reason. It's comfortable, breathable, easy to care for, and incredibly versatile. From crisp dress shirts to rugged workwear, cotton adapts to virtually any application.
The quality of cotton depends on fiber length (staple). Long-staple cottons like Egyptian, Pima, and Sea Island produce smoother, stronger, more lustrous fabrics. The best cotton fabrics have a soft hand feel that only improves with washing.
Linen is the oldest textile fiber known to humanity, prized for thousands of years for its exceptional coolness in hot weather. Linen fibers are hollow, allowing air to flow freely and wicking moisture away from the body faster than any other natural fiber.
The characteristic "slubs" and texture of linen are part of its charm. Yes, it wrinkles—dramatically—but those wrinkles are a badge of authenticity. A perfectly pressed linen garment looks unnatural. Embrace the relaxed aesthetic.
Silk is nature's only continuous filament fiber, produced by silkworms to form their cocoons. Its triangular cross-section refracts light, creating silk's signature luster. Silk is remarkably strong for its weight and has natural temperature-regulating properties.
In trousers, silk is rarely used alone but frequently blended with wool to add luster, softness, and improved drape. A wool-silk blend (typically 85/15 or 70/30) creates a luxurious fabric that's more practical than pure silk.
Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, primarily raised in Mongolia, China, and Iran. Each goat produces only about 150 grams of usable fiber per year, explaining cashmere's premium price. The fibers are incredibly fine (14-19 microns) and provide exceptional warmth-to-weight ratio.
For trousers, cashmere is typically blended with wool to improve durability while adding unparalleled softness. A 10-20% cashmere blend significantly elevates the hand feel without the fragility of pure cashmere.
The way threads interlace determines a fabric's texture, durability, and drape. Understanding weaves helps you choose the right fabric for your needs.
Also known as: Tabby weave, Taffeta weave
The simplest and most common weave. Each weft thread passes alternately over and under each warp thread. Creates a strong, durable fabric with a flat, uniform appearance.
Also known as: Diagonal weave
Creates a distinctive diagonal rib pattern. The weft thread passes over multiple warp threads before going under. Results in a softer, more drapey fabric that resists wrinkles better than plain weave.
Also known as: Sateen (cotton version)
Weft threads "float" over multiple warp threads, creating a smooth, lustrous surface. The long floats catch light beautifully but make the fabric more prone to snagging.
Also known as: Broken twill, Chevron weave
A variation of twill where the diagonal direction reverses at regular intervals, creating a V-shaped pattern resembling fish bones. Adds visual interest while maintaining twill's excellent properties.
Also known as: Panama weave, Matt weave
Groups of warp and weft threads are woven as one, creating a textured, breathable fabric with a distinctive checkerboard appearance. Excellent for summer suits.
Also known as: Cord, Manchester cloth
Features raised parallel ridges called "wales." The wale number indicates cords per inch—higher numbers mean finer cords. A pile weave where extra threads create the raised surface.
Weight is measured in grams per square meter (GSM) or ounces per yard. It determines warmth, drape, and seasonal appropriateness.
Tropical wools, summer cottons, and linens. Ideal for hot climates and warm offices. Light, airy drape with less structure. Expect some transparency in lighter colors.
The "Goldilocks zone" for most wardrobes. Works in air-conditioned offices year-round and across three to four seasons in temperate climates. Excellent drape with enough body to hold a crease.
Substantial fabrics with excellent structure and warmth. Ideal for cooler months and unheated environments. Holds a sharp crease beautifully and provides noticeable insulation.
Heavy-duty fabrics for cold weather. Thick, warm, and durable. May feel too warm indoors with central heating. Best for outdoor activities or particularly cold climates.
Beyond fiber content and weave, specific fabric types have distinct characteristics. Here's your comprehensive guide to the most common trouser fabrics.
Worsted refers to both the type of yarn and the resulting fabric. Long wool fibers are combed parallel, then tightly spun to create a smooth, durable yarn. The resulting fabric has a crisp hand, fine texture, and excellent wrinkle recovery.
180g - 340g (tropical to heavy)
Dry clean only. Brush after wearing. Steam to refresh.
Flannel is wool that has been brushed or "fulled" to raise a soft nap on the surface. This creates a fuzzy, cozy texture that's warmer than worsted of the same weight. Grey flannel trousers are a menswear essential.
280g - 450g+ (medium to heavy)
Dry clean sparingly. Brush gently. Store with cedar.
A tightly woven twill fabric with a pronounced diagonal rib. Originally developed by Burberry for outerwear, gabardine is now a staple for dress trousers. It's durable, wrinkle-resistant, and takes a sharp crease beautifully.
220g - 320g (light to heavy)
Dry clean recommended. Spot clean when possible.
Chino is a cotton twill fabric, typically in khaki or earth tones. The name comes from China, where the fabric was first used for military uniforms. Today, chinos are a casual wardrobe essential—versatile, comfortable, and easy to care for.
200g - 320g (light to heavy)
Machine wash cold. Tumble dry low or hang dry.
Corduroy features distinctive raised ridges called "wales." The wale count indicates ribs per inch—lower numbers mean wider ribs. Originally workwear, corduroy is now embraced for its warmth, durability, and distinctive texture.
280g - 400g (medium to heavy)
Machine wash cold inside-out. Hang dry.
Pure linen is unmatched for hot weather. The hollow fibers allow exceptional airflow, and the fabric absorbs moisture quickly. Linen wrinkles easily—embrace it as part of the relaxed aesthetic rather than fighting it.
150g - 250g (light to medium)
Dry clean or hand wash cold. Hang dry. Iron while damp.
Denim is a sturdy cotton twill where the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Traditional denim uses indigo-dyed warp and white weft, creating the characteristic fading pattern as it wears. Selvedge denim is woven on narrow looms with self-finished edges.
Lightweight: 8-10oz | Mid: 12-14oz | Heavy: 16oz+
270g - 450g+ (10oz - 16oz+)
Wash sparingly. Cold water. Hang dry. Raw: wait 6+ months.
Moleskin is a heavy cotton fabric with a short, dense pile that's been sheared to create an incredibly soft, suede-like surface. Originally workwear, it's now beloved for country pursuits and casual elegance. Exceptionally warm and durable.
320g - 450g (heavy)
Machine wash cold inside-out. Hang dry.
A rough, hard-wearing woolen cloth, traditionally woven in Scotland and Ireland. Donegal tweed is known for the flecks of color spun into its yarn; herringbone and check tweeds are classics for jackets and winter trousers.
340g - 600g (heavy to winter)
Dry clean rarely. Brush after wearing and let it air; tweed recovers well.
Tropical wool is a lightweight plain weave in worsted yarn, made to keep tailoring cool. Fresco goes further: its high-twist yarns are woven open, leaving tiny gaps that let air through and giving the cloth a dry, springy hand that sheds creases.
190g - 300g (light to medium)
Dry clean sparingly. Hang to recover; steam to refresh.
A shirt's character comes from its cloth: the weave, the yarn and how tightly it's woven. These are the shirtings you'll find in our collection, from crisp business poplins to soft weekend flannels.
A plain weave of fine, tightly packed yarns, which gives poplin its smooth, flat face and a soft sheen. It looks sharp under a tie and presses crisply, though it creases more than textured weaves. Also called broadcloth.
A basket weave in which the yarns are paired, giving a visibly textured, slightly heavier cloth: the classic button-down fabric. Pinpoint oxford uses finer yarns for a smoother, dressier shirt; royal oxford adds a subtle sheen.
Each weft yarn passes over two or more warp yarns, stepping along one at a time, so fine diagonal lines run across the cloth. Twill drapes softly, creases less than poplin and hides small marks well.
A plain weave with colored and white yarns alternating in the warp. From a distance it reads as a solid color; up close it's a fine, frosted speckle that adds depth to a business shirt.
A plain weave with a colored warp and a white weft, so it has the heathered look of denim in a light, breathable shirting. It softens with every wash.
Woven on a dobby loom, which lifts warp yarns in small repeating groups to make tiny figures: dots, diamonds, little squares. The pattern is woven in, not printed, so it stays subtle.
Some warp yarns are woven slack, so they pucker into crinkled stripes beside flat ones. The puckers hold the cloth away from the skin to let air through, and it never needs ironing.
Cotton brushed after weaving to raise a soft, fuzzy nap that traps warm air. Usually woven as a twill, and often in checks and plaids.
Woven from flax, linen is crisp and very breathable, and wicks moisture away quickly. Its natural slubs give it character, and it creases easily, which is part of its charm.
The finest cloth comes from mills with generations of expertise. These are the mills whose fabrics we offer today.
Biella, in the foothills of the Alps, is the heart of Italian wool weaving. Italy's great shirting mills are spread across the north.
The world's oldest woolen mill. Seventeen generations of expertise producing Super 110s-170s wools. Exceptional value at the luxury tier.
The pinnacle of luxury. Pioneered the finest cashmere and vicuña. Their "Tasmanian" super wools set the standard for fine tailoring.
From fabric mill to global luxury brand. Their fabrics remain among the finest, particularly their cashmere and high-super wools.
Modern mill with exceptional quality control. Specialist in high-performance wools that combine luxury with practicality.
Founded by Ernesto Thomas in Brusimpiano, on the Italian shore of Lake Lugano. Known for fine wools and blends with cashmere, silk, mohair and linen.
Founded by the three Monti brothers and now in its fifth generation of family ownership. Known for soft brushed cottons and finely woven twills.
A family-run mill in Albino, near Bergamo, and one of the great names in fine cotton and linen shirting.
A family mill near Como that began with silk and turned to shirting in the 1960s. Known for playful colors and patterns.
British mills excel at hard-wearing classics: fine Huddersfield worsteds, flannels, corduroy and moleskin.
The last independently owned cloth merchant in Huddersfield, with its cloth made within ten miles of its historic mill-town home.
A Yorkshire cloth house grown from specialist weaving and finishing firms, behind classic British cloths such as Fresco.
The world's leading producer of fine corduroy and moleskin, weaving in West Yorkshire's Calder Valley. Unmatched expertise in pile fabrics.
London-based merchant with access to the finest fabrics worldwide. Extensive archive of classic and rare cloths.
Donegal, on Ireland's rugged northwest coast, has woven tweed for generations.
A family of weavers in Ardara, County Donegal, since Edward Molloy began weaving in the 19th century. Authentic Donegal tweed from natural-fiber yarns.
From classic solids to bold plaids, understanding patterns helps you build a cohesive, versatile wardrobe.
The most versatile choice. Pairs with anything. Navy, grey, and khaki form the backbone of any trouser rotation.
All occasions
Thin, spaced stripes on a contrasting ground. Classic business pattern. Vertical lines create a lengthening effect.
Business formal
Wider, softer stripes resembling chalk lines. Bolder than pinstripe but still refined. Popular in flannel.
Business to smart casual
Broken zigzag pattern creating subtle texture. Adds visual interest without boldness. Works year-round.
All occasions
Abstract four-pointed shapes. Ranges from subtle (small scale) to bold (large scale). Country heritage.
Smart casual to casual
Large, open check pattern. Makes a statement. Best in subtle colors. Avoid with patterned jackets.
Smart casual
Also called Prince of Wales. Complex check pattern. Sophisticated and classic. A tailoring staple.
Business to smart casual
Overlapping stripes in multiple colors. Bold statement. Best reserved for casual occasions.
Casual
Even checks of white and one color, the same width each way. Crisp and cheerful; the smaller the check, the dressier it looks.
Smart casual
Thin lines in two alternating colors forming a grid on a light ground. Named after a London horse market, it's a country classic.
Smart casual to casual
Bold, even stripes of color and white, each the same width. Bolder than a pinstripe, but still at home in the office.
Business to smart casual
A bright, multicolored check in light cotton, named after the Indian city (now Chennai) where it was first woven. A summer favorite.
Casual
Tiny repeating dots woven into the cloth. From a distance it reads as a solid; up close it adds quiet texture to suits and trousers.
BusinessA quick reference for comparing key characteristics across different fabrics.
| Fabric | Breathability | Durability | Wrinkle Resistance | Formality | Seasons | Care |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wool Worsted | High | All | Dry clean | |||
| Wool Flannel | High | F/W | Dry clean | |||
| Cotton Chino | Medium | Sp/Su/F | Machine wash | |||
| Linen | Med-High | Su | Dry clean pref. | |||
| Corduroy | Casual | F/W | Machine wash | |||
| Denim | Casual | All | Wash sparingly | |||
| Moleskin | Casual | F/W | Machine wash | |||
| Gabardine | High | All | Dry clean | |||
| Fresco | High | Su | Dry clean | |||
| Tweed | Country | F/W | Dry clean |
Proper care extends the life of your garments significantly. Here's how to maintain your investment.
Key terms you'll encounter when shopping for fabrics.
Order fabric swatches at $1 each; the $1 comes back as a gift card. See the quality, feel the weight, and choose with confidence.
Request SwatchesWorsted wool uses long, combed fibers spun into smooth, strong yarn—resulting in crisp, durable fabrics ideal for dress trousers. Woolen fabrics use shorter, carded fibers for a softer, loftier feel—think flannel, tweed, and knits. Worsted is more formal; woolen is warmer and more textured.
The Super number indicates the maximum fineness of wool fibers used, measured in microns. Super 100s = 18.5 microns; each Super number above represents finer fibers. Higher isn't always better: Super 110s-120s offers the best balance of softness and durability for daily wear. Super 150s+ is luxuriously soft but more delicate.
Wool drapes better, wrinkles less, and is appropriate for formal settings. Cotton is easier to care for, more affordable, and better suited for casual environments. For versatility in business settings, wool wins. For casual comfort and easy care, cotton is ideal. When in doubt, invest in quality wool—it's more versatile.
Yes, and that's okay. Linen wrinkles are part of its relaxed, natural character. Fighting the wrinkles is futile—embrace them. If you absolutely cannot abide wrinkles, consider a linen-cotton or linen-wool blend, which wrinkle less. But pure linen's breathability is unmatched for hot weather.
For maximum versatility, choose medium weight (240-280g). It works year-round in air-conditioned environments and across three seasons in temperate climates. If you live somewhere hot, go lighter (180-220g). For cold winters, add heavy weights (300g+) to your rotation.
Generally, yes—to a point. Premium fabrics from renowned mills like VBC or Loro Piana have better hand feel, drape, and durability. The sweet spot is usually mid-to-high tier: you get 90% of the quality at 50% of the ultra-luxury price. Beyond Super 150s, you're paying for softness that sacrifices durability.
As many as you like, at $1 each. Once you’ve paid, we email you a gift card for the amount, valid 90 days. If you’d like help choosing, just ask—we’re happy to help you find the right fabric. Swatches ship within 1–2 business days.